Isortoq, the smallest and most remote village in East Greenland, sits on a tiny island caught between the icecap and the ocean in prime polar bear country. Don’t go far without a rifle. Walk a little and marvel at the looming Greenland icecap and beached Titanic-size icebergs. For every occupied house find two abandoned houses. People are leaving. Only die-hard villagers, like Salo, piniarteqsuaq, a great hunter and a legend among Tunumeeq, stay behind. The air reeks of seal blubber and bear fat. Everywhere, skins and hides are laid or hung out to cure. Husky pups are thick with puuja, a gluey, seal-blood tar. Beware puuja puppies or they will tar and fur you!